since i last posted here about my ham radio adventure i have gone through a couple antennas.
the first antenna was a 40M windom multiband antenna that i stuck on top of a Cabellas 16.5 inch crappy fishing pole screwed to the side of my garage. bought the balun but made the rest of the antenna this is the balun i used i needed a 4:1 balun that was not very heavy because the fishing pole could not support much weight. this balun suffered heating issues when running digital modes over 25w so the swr of the antenna would get higher the more I transmitted and then would come back down once i stopped and the balun had time to cool. not a good thing. that fishing pole is very tough btw it stood up to some wicked storms and once a 2″ diamitor branch fell accross one of the wires of the antenna pulling that pole down horizontal and it did not break
i originaly bought the fishing pole to make a 20m virtical out of it i still intend to do that eventualy.
this summer i had the walnut trees behind my house trimmed so i had the tree trimmer put a rope high up in one of the trees.
currently i have 120 feet of wire hung inverted v connected on one end to the 9:1 unun i built a few years ago and the ground screw of that unun connected to a 8 foot ground rod that driven all but the last 6 inches into the ground this seems to be the most effective antenna i have built so far taking into consideration that band conditions are not as good as they were a few years ago it is also the tallest.
this page is to document a very interesting setup my father in law
Donald fabricated to convert small gasoline engines to run on
natural gas or propane.
Sadly Donald passed away a some years ago now and his collection of small engines has been sold and scattered to the winds
but perhaps some people will find the simple technique he used to make them run without having to mess around with messy gasoline interesting for academic purposes although i do not recommend using it as there are proper kits available and this settup is not safe for unattended operation.
To convert 1-5 HP gas engines to natural gas or propane he modifies a poppet regulator (Maxitrol RV48 works well)
by removing the pressure regulating spring and cap. disassembling and replacing the diaphragm with a piece of a latex surgical glove to get the regulator
to fully close but still open under vacuum . That way if the regulator is oriented up side down so that gravity helps hold the diaphragm valve closed no gas will flow until vacuum created by the engine sucking air through the venturi draws the gas through the regulator.
for use with LP gas he puts a gas grill type regulator between the tank and the modified poppet valve.
Next he constructs a venturi using copper water pipe brass shim stock and 3/16” O.D. thin wall brass tubing.
he selects the size of copper pipe that best fits over the air inlet of the carburetor on the engine and cut a piece 2” long.
(¾” rigid copper water pipe seems to work well for most small engines.)
then he rolls 2 pieces of shim stock into cone shapes about 1” long with the large ends being the same size as the I.D. of the copper pipe
and the small ends being between 5/16” and 3/8” larger
for larger engines smaller for smaller engines but 5/16 to 3/8 seems to work well for most small engines.
He Solders the 2 cones inside the 2”piece of water pipe so that the small ends meet in the middle
then drills a 3/16” hole though the side of the water pipe and though the shim stock just to side of were the 2 cones meet
so that the side of the hole cuts the edge of one piece of shim stock .
Then he cuts the end of the 3/16 O.D. brass tubing at a 45 degree angle.
Then inserts it into hole in side of water pipe aligning it so
that the angle cut lines up with the angle of the shim stock as best he
can and solders it in place.
next he fabricates a flow valve to go between the poppet regulator and
the venturi by drilling and taping a hole for a small machine screw
into one side of a piece of tubing so that when the machine screw is
screwed all the way in till it touches the other side of the tube it
pretty much blocks the entire tube. that way he can adjust the fuel air
mix by turning the screw in or out.
then he plumbs it all together with assorted tubing and hose in this
order, gas grill regulator (only needed for LP), modified poppet
regulator, flow valve, venturi. and then mounts the venturi on the air
intake of the carburetor of the engine being sure to get a relatively
air tight seal between the venturi and the carburetor.
this is posted for academic purposes only if you choose to use this information you do so at your own risk and I will not answer questions on this subject thank you.